Control • Identity • Connections

Laws • Rules • Protection • Comfort • Privacy

Environment • Shelter • Climate • Maps

Emphasis on being able to use design as a tool to create function or aesthetics, but also discussion, debate or attention. 

contextual perspective, research, problem solving, planning and organization, evaluation and reflection, and practical, technical and presentational skills’

• Wolfgang Tillmans work

The reality of Life 

• Robert Rauschenberg Exhibition

The introduction of the aesthetic and collaging and how this has influenced inspired my sketch book work for this project 

INVISIBLE PEOPLE artwork  

A CYCLE OF VIOLENCE - I have figured out that my sketchbook should be a story and journey of What a Downward spiral for an outcast could look like with design development, lineups, photographed experiments and workshops throughout accompanied by textile samples.

The Psychological torture of prison life makes people wrongfully convicted or unfortunately imprisoned into hardened and more purposeful criminals as the psychological effects and conditioning of being in the prison environment automatically place them in a constant position of fight or flight position, where avoiding confrontation is seen as weakness. I recently purchased a thick memory foam mattress and on researching the inside of an inmates cells made a connection on how I could look at the hard framing of the prison bunk bed with the release of stress and put pressure on certain parts of the body through laying on memory foam which upholds and takes on ones position. 

From watching a video on prisons in the UK toughest National offender management service at at Cleland house I looked at the prison staff's uniform and started to think about how I could possibly mix the staff shirt uniform with the pastoral type colours of the prison inmates and the sweatshirt material used and how this could be fused together to create a deconstructed blended look and how I could use the contrasting ideas of smart verse scruffy, lower class, poor easily functional clothing. Mixing it together to almost create my own class in the middle this concept behind the pieces I'm making would be to raise money to eradicate homelessness / crime and eradicating raising awareness of the ostracism of the underclass and outcasts of society.

Watching the prison programmes on Miami mega jail I picked up on why prisoners would have pants pulled up over their trousers this then started a fashion outside prison of men wearing their pants low to signal sexual availability without alerting guards they were Gay to avoid being discriminate against. I also learnt they won't allow belts which made their pants hang a lot lower than usual, the prisoners wore long big white boxers that were a lot higher to cover up there behind. Prisoners in the US wear much baggier T-shirts which could be related to gang culture in gang fashion from their previous life outside of bars. I think for my project I should definitely look at types of tie and fitted clothing and contrast this with the gang fashion of baggy bottoms and a baggy extra do you charge sleeving and pants to create an interesting garment idea.

I started to watch 'Life in Wandsworth Prison' a BBC documentary and realise some prisoners created their own type of fashion is a way to disguise their faces and hide in Veil secrets and drugs and packaging within the prison.  It made me start to think how I could maybe create details on the garment that will eventually make be having hidden aspects or concealed certain parts around or on the body directly. This idea lead me to think how I could have drug type textile pieces or samples relating to the refugee crisis coming out of lining on the garment, but trapped or only just seen, which could be hidden more or collaged with camouflaging and intricate detailing, something I want to fully explore and express in my sketchbook.

Over the course of the research we did an exercise  in class on collaging other peoples work that had won the best proposal in the group this gave me an opportunity to more much more freely create college work as I wasn't scared to create work that was for myself I discussed with my tutor how I should try and implement this type of method and effect with my own work quite like the Group imagery and make quick five minute collages out of them so I'm not getting too hung up on how it should look.  This will enable me to quickly arrange ideas more efficiently and nurture my idea development as I can quickly merge ideas, patterns and textures together that would maybe not do before or put together if I wasn't under so much pressure. So printing off lots of rough images of my research and reacting to it immediately to be a lot more productive than worrying about how I am laying out on in my sketchbook. I have learnt this then can be interpreted how I want within the book and I can make and I can make well rounded decisions of what I am planning into my research and collage work with my book and what is in as relatable to where I want the direction of my project to go I feel today has been a huge learning curve on how I speed up starting a project and how I take my development of my research further something I have struggled with my past projects.

Today I learnt handknitting and finger knitting with my friend Iza and practised making small samples in my book in pharmaceutical and green colours to nurture the project. Maybe towards the end of the project I can incorporate some samples of metal and neck within this over to resemble barbed wire fencing and objects that looked on my workflow that Michael in barbed wire or call in fencing around the Calle jungle. This could reflect the idea of people being caught within abrupt of been in a cycle of depression or violence or crime or stuck within an institution or a place of isolation for example mental health patient stuck with them at a mental asylum prisoners stuck within the prison or stuck involved in a violent environment or alcoholics stuck within rehab.  This idea remind me of how I felt trapped at school and how I all trapped within the hostel I was growing up with when I was younger and I was stuck somewhere where didn't want to be there should be an important feature within my garment of things being trapped or pulled into aspects of the garment that should definitely be some sort of Knit or metal work within the main aspect of the front of the garment to show this I think it would be good if this was incorporated all down within lines in the padded cells or padded work on the garment instead of actually concealing forms within the work and use the padding around it as relief. 

I carried on this type of work that give me a lot of beneficial ideas and I performed at a house starting to form what the outcast meant to mail to different people from this I then explored further and push the Adidas M idea more by looking at the illustrations I was doing in my book with striking lining and then deconstructed some Adidas tracksuits and merge the lines from going three and two into one so it's like a drape and Selectric down the leg of light and aligning the positioning of it and I merged ideas by mixing in with a para bondage pant  that I had bought for the project as I felt it tied in with this mixture of two different themes and ideas the sportswear at inmate where the prisoners would wear that was cheap and the mixture of the idea of concentration camps in striping with bookling and bell end and belting and straps hanging down on zipping that was more like the traditional kind of escapist mental health kind of like punk rock look

I don't shop this on my friend Stephen with within the next day and then started to draw and design develop my book out maybe I could have some knitwear that looked up from Fairbury 28th involved in this and then did some design development across three pages and had knitwear and and and metal drawn coming out of the eyelets down the body into striping did it come and horizontally down from it looks like the stripes on the pants which then from the mark making of me became can of embellished and push down padded parts of cells 

I feel that this was one of the more affective exercise I did as it related to my research a lot stronger and I didn't overthink all over do something and I just did something raw and organic organic off-the-cuff looks like the styling exercise with Richard Moss's work that was their interpretation directly which created some sort of primary research it made mail or my am it made my project more organic NNNN less obvious and I'm going in my own direction something that hadn't been done before instead of me just extracting shapes.Placing shapes are drawn in the book on the body I was conned with more diverse textile pieces that I hadn't haven't looked at or done before and my other projects this is something that I feel I've developed and worked on strongly at today and I'm really happy with the outcome and the colleges have been doing in my book it's a lot more at the stress and pressure on the Garman and how is Paul would advise the mixture of tension and striping with metalwork inventing is all come together from this. I then made the design decision to have knitwear within metal and coming out of metal we've got pulled across the garment from this

so i made that outfit and was in uni deconstrrcuting suits and developing a shape from curtain fabric from the exercise in class with chris.. i re did it to concentrate on having more time to make a better shape and revising what I had already done

We started to do workshops in class to integrate within our project to help us get a quick analysis from Sheik development of some interesting shapes we could implement into our outcome and start developing through our book we started this workshop with Chris where we had to stick to get us together pieces of our research to create a 3-D form something which I have never previously done I chose the doors is within a prison in the hallway for the two point from one point perspective photos photograph so that it looked like it was zooming in and had a bus across square type structure and then looked at padded cells and manipulated with a Stanley knife how I could pick out the texture of the padded cell and integrated within the shape amongst lethal injection vaults I created a 3-D form However I wasn't happy with my outcome that day as it was quite rushed I didn't have much time and I change made a decisive decision on changing the material that are used to make my 3-D form with we had to cut the shake some pattern paper and disassemble the 3-D form and then put it back together with the pieces of material would call out from the shapes I'm doing this I do use bedsheets to bring across the hospitalise mental illness type of theme to my work as that is what I was looking at that bit today on workflow and what I was what I've been currently researchin. I have a valuated my work from the day and decided to take the next two days of my project to revisit this exercise and make a strong outcome so that I can have something useful to integrate within my project instead of a day and exercise been wasted I then went and bought a much heavier material in my colour scheme which was an old curtain which looked camouflage like much like the type of camouflage tax people of use to escape from prison then it would tones of light green grass off white which related to my project really well it was much many interesting features to the curtain material I do used as the top joining was all bound and corrugated across where the eyelets would go in for it to sit on top of a railing and then use this around like that the form that it would be left when draped on the body and create interesting shapes and textures as the lining was coming again this could relate to my Adidas stripes all the refugee research I've been looking at with child soldiers on how they are made to carry ammunition all their baby brothers and sisters on the body

I'm speaking to Chris my tutor explained how when we finished our 3-D form we should take apart another garment this is part of the exercise in which we added functionality and already exist in parts of the garment black sleeves colours and details from the garments we bought to make our form look are crazy form look more like a garment this is important in design development she then can rationalise and create the shape to look more like a garment I chose a refugee military best which suited this and are very slick. Blazer in the tone of that would go with the curtain and then within the colour palette of my project I then spent most of today deconstructing this jacket and placing it on different parts of on the body and in different parts on the form as you can see below this is a reflective image to show this

Pocket placements and how people in the Calle jungle from my research would need access to drugs or food or medical supplies or quick access to things that they would maybe need hidden from the right police that were coming to take objects or valuables of them like offensive weapons that they would write with I thought about more about the functionality of the fallback create and have a good at these pockets and the format created to create a garment that would have pocketing and flaps in secret places

 I then created a pocket on the sleeve which could be which help Hancon like our class a deconstructed a collar which was a double college create the shape of something being pulled around the neck. 

From this it made me think more about how I could've said that it highlights stress on the garment and how I could create a death-row type refugee style garment that would weigh heavy I added aspects on to the heart and started to work more around the horde using fabric from my form before to assign you saying about striping watch coronet into my Adidas research around the horde as if it was a poor do rag and then stuck up the Bandele type of curtain material and draped over the shoulder is it the garment self was out at a wall like a war type of aspect garment the refugee would wall where as if the light was going into water get past these obstacles and and and keep these valuables and objects within them safely as they were going through this journey of having to travel from country to country iOS 8 made flaps all down the back pocket in which gave me the idea of how the forms and documents that they might need to be headed down the back and kept clean from that dirty environment 

My 3-D form revisited workshop that led me to look on to tenting in refugee camps what it meant to be in one of these refugee camps and then did exhaustive research on her own workflow and through videos and watching films on the ideology behind getting into a different country of why these refugees are in Calais wanted to come here I looked at the tenting how the colour scheme of UNICEF of is that the the the bright blue colour potential sleeping around the refugee camps and then locked and researched a refugee camps from a birds eye view and how do I hooks in different countries and shacks I am I looked baby slings and how things were carried in refugee camps and how things were contained and ends in strung across campus in netting à la also was massively inspired today by researching into the camps and I have found out that they have nightclubs in which they have these club nights in certain tents to upkeep spirit and it made me think and evaluate how you know how social outcast can come together and how hard times can be made better three music so at a dental hi can you mix these ideas of tenting and pocketing and any DIY aspects of creating garments to bring about the a spittle bring about M and understanding your not to beautify because I disagree with that book to bring about an awareness of the functionality of what it would mean to be ready to wear 

LEARNT how to do a proper bibliography which made me think about the different poijnts of research and what sources were more reliable and gave me more of an indication of where i wanted to go.

THIS DAY i looked more at death row pressure and lethal injection boards as i watched BETTER documentionatires on the psychological effects, 

i thought about how i could incorporate tenting and heavy material with loose fabrics and have strapping and metal work to contrast the two ideas, being bound to be legally murdered, and free floating material of the freedom of a journey to try and make it to a different life 

'CONCENTRATE ON PRISON WEAR Aspects'

• The shapes from my textile samples and restraint wear / pocketing.,.
• stopped delving too much into modifications concealment of drugs, vague research cut out like the festival stuff etc 
• Made project go in a more abstract pharmaceutical, artistic route. IT BECAME LESS obvious the stuff i was looking at and developed into my own interoperation of how i could show things instead of obvious things like prison uniform striping etc. 

Today I met a man in Waitrose who had been already questioned by quite a few people from central St Martin's on his appearance he was wearing a big long pocketed toe I need to N and I noticed this strapping across his body and it was connecting to a bag this gave me ideas for my garment he had made a DIY contraption him self as he was old and had a bad posture and stance and he found it difficult to walk around London transport in his work while his bag would fall off the shoulders because of his posture. 

This made me think about how people in jail refugees might struggle to carry luggage or the burden of stress in prison I started to think about garments carry having an emotion and the pressure on the body this this continued into my research on padded cells are put this today printed off next to my mental health page on homelessness. 

What I liked about this but this man is made was it connected to bag straps together in the middle with his own DIY fastening as it can be seen below this took my project in a new direction totally as I thought about how my design could relate in could change in relation to this as I thought about how the mark making I could take from this man's DIY bag that could be a bag pulled over shoulders and the tension of the pants or from back refugee restrain could come down the trousers could come down from out of it and it change the cinema at the shape of pants I was making in my book as they started to become more triangular NN and straight down from this in tight section where bagging could be placed

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On my way back from home from uni when I've been just carried on with my collage and I did development today I had found a umbrella on the way home it was broken and in the end of the dump that I was my colour palette I was drawn to it because of the pharmaceutical blue light colour which relate to my refugee colour scheme of the UNICEF type at canning crisis blue that used in the tents and pop-up ship Shacksboro refugees this led me to look at this and object in a different way and I experimented back in my flat,  cutting out different the shapes of the umbrella when it was stretched out and then moving in open down so that the legs would almost affect the umbrella would almost make these trousers him like she can have zigzags coming down and I thought about how I could have tenting inventing down the legs to create this this parachute like an umbrella shape trouser hem leg that would come out as if someone had been merged into the floor or it was like a flat kind of type of trouser and look for looking similar to the shapes in the tenting of these camps 

After the workshop with Petra and then got on the CSM Instagram page from creating a ColorBoard and lots of leftover to read that I found in the boxes for the next students I created a big ColorBoard to look at all the different colours of what I've explored in my research so far this really help broaden my ideas and and and what think about more about the tones of what I was going to use at the match this with the deconstructing Adidas trainers. Look at the lining aluminous at striping in and how plastic and NN foam and the repair was used on shoes and how I could take it apart with Stanley knives and swords and move around the page I match this weekend my book along with my samples and the design develop some extra abstract shapes on the body which are then rationalise down seven pages of each one and each one of the sample and then correlated across the pages with Howard rationalised it with things that like this then gave me. You're a ball black trouser hem shape bandaging and stitching and belting going down increases through the Lagan Paul's at ana toebox like shoulder Sila wet hair which I carried which I want to carry on into my final design idea account of abstract upwards type shape coming off the body with different kind of bunting in fabric of bandaging. 

I learnt from this exercise to be more precise and as I went on I got friends in the class to come and create my work and tell me which what they thought of that some feedback was that they still look like trainers so my challenge was to keep manipulating and keep working on top of the samples until they didn't look like trainers anymore which is something I managed to accomplish in the end integrated one or two parts of things that looked up before so little pots of net and metal within the samples to make it more Myona make them less like pieces of trainer I moved and blended rubber and phone and plastic of the Adidas stripes around this fusion trainers that were pulled around the back and laid the map flat which cricket is very intricate and abstract shapes that I wanted to pull around the body. 

BOUGHT A FLEXI RULER, pratcied at wetsminster university with my friend elisia, how to make patterns or take blocks and already existing patterns for simple garments like trouser patterns for Levi Jeans. we then practiced and responded to my development from my trainer research with a flexi ruler i bought and i made trouser hem toiles off this exercise to practice for my final outcome, 

i made a good design decision to develop and keep pratcing with this, and use the first toile wiuthin my final garment as i was loving the bulb shape trouser hem i had got from collaging my adidas trainer samples and placing them on illustrations, the trousers rose and came out like they were screwed to the ground. 

27th - Train Home met a man, talked about many aspects, discuss here

28th- design development from adidas samples, creating shapes, 

29th - collaging work and catch up work, using workflow and imagery to be decisive about where to go

introducing new mkaterials and fabric shopping in bradford with grandparent, how this influenced the direction my book took

30th - Colour Wheel exercise, implementing my colour board praised by tutors, and creating 2 material pages of what I had found outside of London that would relate to my research.

On the first week of Easter I went back to my grandmas to escape London and get some clarity on the project I talked about many aspects on the way back but the man and when I got back to see my grandma I explored with new materials from fabric shopping in Bradford at Bombay stores this influence the direction my book as I need to pay pages relating to my ColorBoard we have exercise previously praised by my tutors agreed to material pages of what I found outside of London that could bring into the project and nurture it further I found a rustic Indian type material that change colour and some pharmaceutical top cotton livid shirt with Tereus I started to collage work and catch up today he's in work for an imagery to be decisive about where to go. 

I made decisions today for my design development of Adidas samples and looked at how I could have bandaging and fabric pulled around the shoulder I made the decision size decision with my grandma that I would have the pants in the ball Black shape with belting up the leg from the ideas I've got from my development.  I'm thinking of recreating this with pleating boning all wiring with some incorporation of the umbrella light shade down the trouser hem. 

i'm shopping today I found some bags within Bradford that appeal to me they were Indian and and looks like from a different country and they hung from small straps small and corded pieces of fabric and then thought about how I could recreate this kind of woven affect around material in my textile work this then led me to doing some further knit samples back at my grandmas in more in different colours and she talking techniques of how to knit and knit different yarns together. To create a multi coloured net I learnt a lot today from practising a technique over and over again and I can say I'm very good at handknitting. 

Today I laid up my knit samples in my book and related it to the island research I previously done three recreating a blazer by welding in eyelets down there and creating a bondage tracksuit I related my research across the page to do some college work in design development that was very portfolio like it's my most appealing page in the book and I laid out the samples with silver hooks and wrapped metal binding around hoops that would be on a curtain rail Touch the two unit samples I created the previous night together with two hoops connecting them and hooks going across this that make me think this is my best sample in my book that made me think of how I could have net or eyelets and things woven across the body something which I started drawing my book I want to incorporate it within the pattern inside make a habit connecting to one side of the garment the other as I feel this shows that relates to terms of tenting stress and pressure and tension. 

April 11th- Looking at hand restraints and bags 

Today I looked at hand restraints and bags and the pressure of someone being typed from Hamilton to me back to front I started to do some design development today my book at the realisation that I want to make a front and restraint and that can be straight on my garment and I need to work out what the angle of the season I've been problem solving this by doing quick sketches across the page with my mum and given to giving it a crate with my mum on with which we think is the best design ideas I started to realise but the hands in the back restraint could lead into the back of the pockets and the hands in the front and restraint could lead into the back of think this is an interesting idea as it brings the two concepts of the refugee bag in hand restraint together and the sagging pants that I've looked in my sketchbook to do with signalling sexuality availability in prison at together it creates more of their M ever developed idea and it has a deeper tone in my work of the struggle someone might face in prison it also explore sexuality and struggle with sexuality someone and been being bound by prison but also wanting to be who they want to be I feel like this is one of the stronger things that come out of my work to explore the idea of someone being outcast socially

April 12th - Combining my ideas doing design development 

Started to do some design development in my book today merging the ideas of the drape are done and that at the start of the project I brought it back in I tried to think much more mature about a project and it being the type of processes that could you so bandaging down the neck I started to use bandaging on this Twilight made today of I took apart the drape I took a part of a piece of the drape from my Nishu 12 and that was the head had covered the Bandlier I began looking at patchwork and how I could have patchwork bandaging down the arm almost like fake hospital I had a fake hospitalise type of piece of textile work in reflection of my talk with Una a month or two ago we spoke about how things could look fake or things could look clinical and that could oppose the other ideas of my project to be a nice contrast so will need to merge the idea of bandaging down the rigid structure of what I was originally looking at the idea of being a child soldier ammunition sleeve.

April 13th -

Began to draw faces of a mod mod like Fanclub Robbie who would walk to Balenciaga and I found his chiselled structure and in mood in some of his drawings interesting how began exploring on acetate and drawing his space covering acetate back over it with tattooing and how I could change his mood I experimented today with taping and scanning back onto acetate and minimising his face so I could push my book a lot quicker onwards with my lineups and design development I found from this that I was able to put a lot more expression into my work quit playing 

I'm BA I want to experiment quickly and more with this method at the start of a project so I can establish my music with my book and do a lot more efficient drawing this is something I've learned over the period of the course as I'm struggling to get a mood and faces in my book in the first few projects over the final project I really develop my drawing skills and it's something I wanted to take on into BA

April 14th -

 design development across pages, what i dsicovered, knit and eyelets stress around garment, things i drew, venting etc and padding on diff parts of body,

To explore further the padded cell idea I bought some calico and some cushioning and started sewing down lining a bit like similar to cut across a cricket rugby type armour I thought about how this could be draped around the body or within the garment like the drug consignment I previously looked at it could show impressional stress in the garment and I thought about how I could sew this within already existed and drape and 12 from the beginning of the project to give it some new life and Develop newer textures from it.

I want to make my own type of quilting and this informed my designs as it gave it some straight-line structure into the front of my piece today I think I might go and buy some rugby kits and studied the structures of it and start play around with how I can incorporate some lining down and impression down the front of the garment

I wanted to make the garment but there was different aspects that I had to focus on. Today I started to make the belting around the pockets I'd already drawn out on pattern paper and sone two sides to each other of the pockets to create this and then attach the belting to the pocket so that they hung down which was the new idea had developed the day previously I soon near preen onto the shapes I created in draping with the rugby kit which took me a great deal of time and then we don't hand sewing the bandaging around the shoulder piece which I had created earlier with shoulder padding . 

What took me the greatest deal of time with stamping eyelets into this outdoor outdoor wear tight black material and then weaved rope within the pieces and strips to go around and within the eyelets relating to my previous ideas. 

making belt buckles on train there (thinking of extra accesories or things i could of explored) 

18th - Today was the day of my shoot and I hadn't slept so was feeling quite nervous about my garment. I had purchased a garment bag and hanger and was still making adjustments before I had to leave to get on my train back to London.

When I got to CSM I asked Jo if Oz could model out of the male models as I felt he suited my Garment more than the other boys, I made some belting last minute with elastic and buckling I had bought which I hand sew on to the straps.

I think this was a good idea to do last minute in reflection because it enabled me to add a finishing touch to my trousers, made them more interesting and diverse, and gave a different look to the pants and the creasing up and down the legs from the positioning of it. My work was posted on The CSM page and I got some good pictures today which has made me very happy. 

19th - outcome of shoot

I have spent all day retouching and learning new skills on Photoshop in order to make the outcome of the shoot more successful and tidy up the look of some of the photos taken. I think this was a successful day in terms of learning new skills as I watched various youtube videos on how to accomplish certain methods or tasks on Photoshop something I am not clued up on. My day was a very self taught day  as I adapted and applied methods of editing to accomplish a more finished outcome and be able to order prints of my work. Th editing and selection process is very important and I cropped certaij imagery and wittled my shoot outcome down to the 3 most impactful pictures that best represented my garment and the design elements of it. 

20th - Today I have been reflecting a lot on the shoot and the end of the course which is approaching in the next few days. It has made me emotional and I have gone away from my flat to have some time with friends which has enabled me to consciously think about the outcomes of all my projects and all the different aspects it will take for me to achieve my full potential as a Fashion student on BA. The reflection of shoot and reflecting on what it will take for me to be a designer and how this final project has made me aware of the amount of work needed, the components and skills learned across all the projects have helped me greatly as a person.